Row, Row, Row Your Boat -- All 120 Of You

Just as I start to get grumpy about India -- because it's always honking at me and there is no escaping its vicious mosquitoes -- India pulls something else out of her vast bag of tricks to bring me back into the fold. :o)

Last Saturday, Kerala held its annual Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race -- and what a magnificent show it was! Snake boats are loooooooooong rowboats, 100-158 feet, powered by up to 120 rowers. The length of these things is just astonishing. The event has been called the largest team sport in the world.

This year, 56 boats competed in 14 different events on Punnamada lake in Alleppey (Allapuzha). 18 of the boats were full-length snake boats, while others were smaller boats composed of about 30 rowers each. The winners take about five minutes to cover the 1360 meter distance (a little less than a mile). I've read that the boats go up to 50 kilometers (~30 miles) per hour, although it didn't seem like they were going that fast in these races.

 
That's all one rowboat!

The event included three all-women teams, rowing in full saree costume (above). No wonder the women's race goes only half the distance of the men's -- I cannot imagine having to row in those tight little saree blouses, and with all those yards of fabric wound around me!

A women's team looks on while the men go by.

 
Another women's team.

 
In addition to the oarsmen, each boat included several "cheerleaders" who stood between the rowers and at the back end of the boat. They used drums and whistles to maintain the rowing rhythm and pump up the rowers.

 

Some teams looked like professional athletes, spiffed up in company-sponsored team t-shirts and baseball caps (above). But many of the teams were simply representatives of local villages who were not athletes. A local man who took me to the race in his small boat proudly pointed out the team that was representing his village.

 
A thirsty rower takes a last sip before his race.

On the shores of the lake, thousands of spectators, including this group of rowdy boys who formed an impromptu plastic-bottle band, cheered on the rowers.

The winning team in the women's event (above) included several foreign women, the only foreigners in the event. (As far as I know, there were no foreigners in the men's events.) Of course, this brought calls for banning of foreigners from the races.

I'm of two minds on this controversy. On the one hand, foreign involvement in an ancient local event definitely changes the very nature of the event. Many of the villagers who originated this event in the 1900's can no longer afford to compete against the wealthier corporate-sponsored teams, something that will only get worse as more foreigners join in.

On the other hand, if you are going to hold a world-class competition -- which is how this is being billed by Kerala -- you cannot be afraid to compete against the world. Should France have banned American Lance Armstrong from the Tour de France for winning 7 years in a row? Should the U.S. exclude African runners from the Boston Marathon, because they have won the marathon for the last two decades?

What do you think?

Comments

[Dale B.]

I have never seen anything like those boats. Their length is just astonishing. Do you know if they are supposed to be steady? Wouldn't it be terrible if one individual tips a bit to the side and all the people fall out?

[DonnaK]

Simple solution--allow the non-Indian participants( defined by citizenship) to have their own team. From the the pictures you've shown, it seems that the non-Indian women wore sunglasses, gloves and headwraps?, but the Indian women did not. Just an observation.

[Esben]

Great pictures from an amazing event. I have been wanting to go for that race for a long time now. As for the foreigner dilemma, it's a tough one. I guess it depends on whether they want
this to be primarily a cultural event or as you said a world class sporting event.

But an alternative solution could be to have two different races. One exclusively for locals racing for the Kerala bragging rights, and one for teams from outside Kerala, including the non-Indian world. The best local teams could then move on to face the outside teams in the second stage.

[Gayathri L.]

Hi! These pics are truly amazing... they captured the intensity of the moment. I really want to visit Kerala, we are planning to go there at some point... I think there is a lot to see and discover: backwaters, nature, wooden houses (huge ones), food, traditional outfits and traditional dances... really amazing:)

[Theresa]

I also noticed that the non-Indian women were wearing gloves and sunglasses! Once again, Basia you have found another great event to attend. I always enjoy reading of your adventures and seeing the pictures. Your pictures capture such a wonderful view of any event you attend.

[Aarthi r]

Welcome back Basia. :) I admit I was a bit crushed reading you last blog because all of it was so true with relatives coming in every year telling me, showing pictures of the many things that were much better in the states.
The rowing has always been so magnificient, as 'onam' nears, the festivities will only become bigger and brighter. It is wonderful to see others participating in the competition. If this were made an international event, it would be another pride for us. But one thing about kerala and india in general. Though people are very hospitable and friendly to outsiders, they are always ready to gaurd their own territory. Maybe this is a lesson we as Indians have learnt the hard way being under years....... of foreign rule. Now coming to kerala. Keralites are fiercely territorial. I mean much more than the average Indian. Mess with them in their own place you are in for a very hard time. Thatz what I hear from friends. Since the boat race is held as a part of the traditional festivities in kerala, they may not want outside participation. But an international rowing event would be lovely. :) The boat bulding for these races is a very costly affair with each village having a commitee to oversee the boat building. The minimal cost is 6 lakhs rupees. We need more organization and sponsers so that the locals dont feel left out.

[Basia]

Dale: They're amazing, aren't they? They seemed pretty steady -- I didn't see a single one of the 56 boats tip over at any time. But one problem that they were having, was that with so much splashing from so many oars, there was a lot of water going inside the boat, and some of the boats were sinking lower and lower. I heard that one got completely submerged, though I didn't see it myself.

DonnaK But what if the foreigner team won? Then we'd be back to the same protests... Yeah, that was interesting about the sunglasses and gloves. None of the Indian rowers wore sunglasses, although I think there was one other older Indian woman who wore gloves.

Esben: You should go next year if you have a chance. It's really fabulous to see.

Gayathri L: Definitely! I think this was my 5th or 6th trip to Kerala, and each time I see something new.

Theresa: Thanks Theresa!

Aarthi: Oh no...I don't want my readers feeling crushed... but you know, India is full of such paradoxes...some things are spectacular, some not so great. Same as with any country, I suppose...

[Arun Katiyar]

A friend of mine pointed me to your post. I was at the same event and can see that your pictures truly capture the event. Congrats.

[Basia]

Thanks Arun. I loved watching this race. I noticed from your blog entry that you were at the official viewing pavillion. I debated about whether I should do that. The place I stayed at arranged for a local rower to take me to the race, and it worked out very well. The viewing pavillion looked awfully crowded, I don't think I would have enjoyed it as much there.

[Ringwald]

Can someone provide me with the daily newspaper dated 12th August 2007 talking (not in English) of the Nehru Boat Race because the woman and the girl on the first page are of my familly and they have lost this paper ?
Thank you very much

[Arun]

For information about nehru trophy boat race 2008 and online ticket booking visit

the website ntbr.igitec.com.

regards

[Julie Lewis]

Namaskaram from Dubai ! Great to see the kerala blog - I lead the team of foreign women from the UAE to take part in the women's snake boat race - I have been taking a team of 10 women every year since 2006 and we LOVE being part of this amazing event which is steeped in history. We have the blessing of the race chairman / woman to take part along with the of the local ladies team who we paddle with ( not against ! ) It is an honour to join the women, we go 5 days ahead of the race to train with them ,they are now like our sisters and we love going back to see them and their children , families every year. Who knows maybe one year a seprate category will be created for tourists/ foreign team - in the meantime we will be back every year to join our new found paddling sisters ! Noted the comment about us wearing gloves, sun glasses and bandanas ! Last year we bought 40 pairs of gloves for the team - they wore them once then gave to to their kids - they much prefer the tape we take for them to protect their hands ! Non of the women we have paddled with have ever worn sunglasses - offered them but again prefer not to wear . This year we bought flowers for each of the women to put in their hair - this went down really well ! Over the week leading up to the race we have time to connect with the women and children of the village and each year take books, pens and other items they need. Great to see the women's event getting more coverage now - this year four teams of women entered - all watched by the guest of honour Sonia Ghandi. We were fortunate enought to have a press conference prior to the race attended by Minne Anthony - the first female race chairwoman and District collector- what a woman ! Loved our presence and thanked us for bringing a truly international flavour to the event ! Our team from Dubai consisted of women ranging from 25 - 54 , all resident in Dubai yet originating from South Africa, Australia, Syria , UK , India - to include a mother and daughter !
We know our participation will inspire and empower more women to get into action and unite in the spirit of adventure ! Jules Lewis - Founder of Mountain High and passionate about mountains ... snake boats , lakes , sari's and empowering women around the world one adventure at a time !!! www.mountainhighme.com PS - it's very easy to paddle in a sari !
Our boat DEVAS ( means shining moon goddess ) was built by mastercraftsman paid for by a great guy based here in Dubai ( originally from Kerala ) whose dream to build a boat and support a women's team became reality this year - many thanks KALAL ! Arpoooooooo iru iru iru ( snake boat war cry !!! ) :-)