A Silenced Kathmandu

Well I made it to my hotel in Kathmandu safely!

It was an eerie ride from the airport to the hotel. In response to the massive demonstrations planned for Saturday, the king imposed a two-day all day curfew. People are forbidden to leave their homes, and cars are not allowed on the roads. They are giving special curfew passes to taxis which take tourists from the airport to their hotels. Our car was virtually the only one on the road. We were stopped at every intersection by armed security people, each one of whom scrutinized our curfew exemption pass. The city was a ghost town. The penalties for breaking curfew must be very severe, because I did not see a single civilian on the streets. Actually, I take that back. In one very poignant scene, I saw a bearded old man walking the streets, amidst all the security people, playing a flute. I was so tempted to take a picture, but I didn't dare - there were too many rifles and batons around!

Later that evening, I could hear from the hotel room the chants of demonstrators, police sirens, and from the rooftop of the hotel see the smoke of tires being burned (to prevent cars from moving about). So it looks like elsewhere in the city, a lot of people have broken curfew and are taking part in the demonstrations.

Today (Sunday) the curfew is still in effect. I'm getting restless; I really want to be up and about exploring the city. Another tourist, a Danish woman, and I decide to venture out of the hotel and see how far we can get. We find a few other tourists wondering around. The cops seem fine with us being there, they don't question us. I think maybe I must have been a war correspondent or something in another life, because I don't feel frightened at all by the military presence! I just feel a deep sadness that this bustling city of over a million people has been so silenced.

Supposedly, the curfew will be lifted tomorrow (Monday) so I'm hoping I can explore Kathmandu a bit. My trekking guide was supposed to meet me today, but because of the general strike was not able to come (she was coming from another city) so we've delayed the start of the trek until Tuesday.

P.S. Happy Birthday to my seester Meg today!

Comments

[Clare]

We are watching the newspapers nervously -- there was a story about a woman killed in Kathmandu in this morning's paper. For heaven's sake, Basia, be careful! (At least think of your camera if not your own neck!!!) :-)

[DonnaK]

Take care, Take care and take care again. Uwazaj, Uwazaj, Uwazaj.

[Dale B.]

(This is the Disneyland version, right?) Basia, I'm following the news closely and thinking of you, and would feel a lot better knowing you were high up in the mountains instead of down there in Kathmandu. The fact that you physically stand out from the native crowd will serve you well, for once. But please be very careful.