Are You One?

Hope you weren't opening this site at work, with your colleagues peeking over your shoulder... ;o) I stumbled onto this exuberant, bigger-than-lifesize statue in the beautiful public park of Malampuzha in Palakkad, during last week's trip. She is Yakshi, a divine enchantress, sculpted by Kanai, a leading Kerala sculptor. Boy, around here, when they take it off, they really take it off! I think she's the first woman I've seen in India who is not clad in a sari or salwar...

In the park, sitting dead center in front of this statue are two young male security guards. As I walk by them, one calls out to me: "Are you one?" I can't for the life of me figure out what he means. Am I one what? Are they asking me if I have one admission ticket to the park? Is it a code of some sort? Is it some reference to the statue? Are they asking me if I am an enchantress too? I am tempted to say, of course I am! and keep walking, but they are persistent. --Are you only one? --Only one what? --You are here one? --I'm sorry, I don't understand. I have one ticket for the garden, yes. --No ticket. One man, one woman, or one? --Oh - you mean, am I single? --Single--yes--no husband?

If I didn't know better, I would assume that it was something about this statue that would prompt a perfect stranger to ask a personal question out of the blue. However, this is a question I frequently get from strangers. Usually, they seem very perplexed by my answer. Here is another recent conversation I had with a taxi driver on the way to work:

--From when are you in India?
--I am here from January.
--Your husband working here?
--No, I am working here.
--Your husband no work here?
--No have husband.
--No husband?? You are how many age?
--I am 49. He does a double-take at me in the rear view mirror.
--Forty-nine?? Four Nine?
--Yes. Almost fifty.
--And no husband?
--No.
--Ooooh, pa, pa, pa, pa, tsk, tsk, tsk. He does a strange little clucking sound that almost makes me fall off my seat with laughter.
Ten minutes later, out of the blue, he checks me out again in the rear-view mirror.
--Forty-nine??? No marriage?

No doubt, he drives off that day, thinking what kind of freak did I have in my vehicle here, who in 49 years hasn't been able to arrange a marriage for herself!!

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TalkBack

"If 'coolies' are everywhere, do you have any idea why the sign prohibits them?" --Sheila
I've been wondering that myself. I think maybe the sign just prohibits them from booking luggage and motorcycles for their customers, not from carrying luggage to their vehicles. But I'm guessing here. I will have to ask around. (Any of my Indian readers, feel free to chime in here, and set me straight!)

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"Regarding the movie you saw: The plot--lesbian as psychopath, as monster--is so absurd as to be downright funny. Are you sure this wasn't meant as satire? Someday, this film is going to be a laughable bit of history. Congrats on being a first generation viewer!" --Dale
Yes, I'm sure it wasn't meant as satire. Though you're right, maybe someday it will be. For now though, that seems to be the real Bollywood view.

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"Maybe we could start wrapping foodstuffs in newspaper here...would give new meaning to people who routinely need to "eat their words"...might cure rudeness on a national level." --Sharon
LOL. They make cute little paper bags from the newsprint too. They look like something that would be hot at a yuppie joint like the Parkleigh for a couple bucks each...maybe I should look into starting a little export business?

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"The Embassy Beach party looks like it could've taken place anywhere on the shoreline...maybe up the street from me. Maybe you could name it "The US Shorts Haven", a support group for people who need a place to show their legs, or for "short" you could call it TUSH." --Sharon

LOL, yes, it did feel rather therapeutic! Although, on the way back, I had two obnoxious young males follow me alongside my autorickshaw for several miles, coming to within a millimeter of my vehicle, staring at my legs and giggling. Get a life, boys!

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"Kerala won my heart too."--Margaret
I can see why! With Kerala, it's love at first sight. I would love to go back and spend an entire month just exploring.

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Comments

[Sharon]

Well, now you know why there are so many weddings...it's just easier
than answering those questions over and over again for the rest of your
life. Wonder if the statue's exuberance comes from being free to be a
"one"!! Bet she doesn't have any kids either!! On the other hand, I get
asked that all the time...then they look at me curiously, sometimes
with envy, sometimes with "huh"...I think I'll go practice that pose now.
sharon

[Bree]

As someone who has not yet been to India, how are Indian women treated who are single and older? Did your position as a single foreigner make you more startling to people like that taxi driver? Or is that how all single women in India are treated?
Bree*

[Gerry McCleave]

I also spent many years in India in my late 20's - even at that age they all thought I should have a husband and some kids. No wonder they are so over over populated.
Yakshis are symbols of fertility and are seen from the 1st C onwards in both Buddhist and Hindu art.
Have a great time.

[Sanjay]

A wonderful post and a greater story! :) I am from Kerala myself. Born and bought up in Mumbai though. I envy you. Just coz you can travel. I love the concept of globe trotting myself. Just havent been able to do it yet. :(

I think Jim Corbett National Park is a place that you have missed out on. The foothills of the himalayas, the royal bengal tiger for company...visit it in December for the real thrill.

Cheers,
Sanjay Nair