This week is the anniversary of my mom’s death. For some reason, her face comes to mind whenever I pass one of the beautiful temples that dot the city of Chennai. She was Catholic, and I am sure she has never set foot inside an Indian temple. But somehow whenever I passed a temple this week, or saw a picture of a Hindu god or goddess, I thought of her. There are Christian churches here as well, but strangely enough, I don’t associate them with my mother. For some reason, this year, she felt more connected to the Indian gods and goddess than to a Christian church.
I mention this to my sister (who knows lots about the complicated myriad of Hindu gods and goddesses), and she says: “She would have been Durga energy. If you can find a Durga temple, that would be powerful.” (Durga is a well-known incarnation of the protectress/mother goddess. I don't know if I'm using the proper terminology here - incarnation? manifestation? energy? - the whole deity thing is still a little confusing to me right now!
The Durga goddess
I set out on a mission to find a Durga temple. I inquire at work, and learn about a temple nearby that has a shrine to Durga. I decide to pay a visit there on the day of her funeral, which is Wednesday. Most temples close at 8:00 pm, so I have to leave work no later than 7:30 to make it there in time (although there are some that stay open until 9). Unfortunately, this day happens to be a very long one, and by the time I get out of work, it’s after 8:00 pm. Even at this time of night, there is a huge traffic jam, and a trip that should take 20 minutes takes 45. As Chitra and I sit impatiently in the nasty traffic I pretty much give up on the possibility of making it to the temple tonight. But Chitra is persistent, she is determined to get me to a Durga shrine tonight! (I think this comes from her role as Team Leader, she gets things done no matter the obstacles!) We arrive at the temple just a few minutes before 9:00 pm, find it still open, and race inside.
Inside, there is a yogi sitting perfectly still, eyes closed, in the middle of the courtyard meditating, and a half dozen or so cows scattered around the courtyard. To our surprise, when we walk up the Durga shrine, there is a marriage ceremony in progress!
A Hindu temple.
This is not the temple described
in this blog entry; this is one
I visited a few weeks ago.
Ok, I’m starting to detect a scary pattern here. My first week in Chennai, I stumble onto a wedding in, of all places, a slum. Then I get invited to a co-workers wedding, and now, another unexpected “stumbling” onto a marriage ceremony. Is the universe trying to tell me something? I say to Chitra, suspiciously: Is my mother trying to tell me something?? After paying our respects at the Durga shrine, we are told there is a special blessing going on at the Shiva shrine, nearby. We race over there and I am amazed to find, at this late hour on a Wednesday night, that there is a large crowd of people waiting in line for the blessing to start. I try to peek in at what they are all looking at. An Indian couple sees me, and very graciously motions for me to stand next to them, so that I have a better view.
I have been to a dozen or so temples in by now, but I have always seen them with a tourist/photographer eye. Usually, I marvel at the amazing carvings, and watch, a curious bystander, as people approach the priest for blessings. Today, it feels different. Today, along with everyone else, I find myself "taking the flame" (placing my palms over the flame of a burning lamp that the priest is holding) and accepting a pinch of white ash from him. I have no idea what it is that people around me are chanting; I just have this urge to stand in the middle of this magnificent temple, with its strange, overpowering energy, and be still.
Before leaving a temple, you are encouraged to sit down for at least a few minutes, and quietly reflect, so we do so. In front of us, people stop and bless (or receive a blessing from--not sure?) a cow that is laying on the ground.
When we step back outside, I notice the rest of the wedding party on the street, including a 10-piece band and several horses. Ok, ok, mom, I hear you! No need to bring out the whole band! (Note to self: look into this arranged marriage thing in the morning…)

Basia - I hope you seriously consider putting all your blog entries into a book. You have a wonderful gift for sharing your thoughts in such a way that people are moved when they are done reading. Thank you for sharing your special moments and thoughts. ~Laura
Posted by: Laura B | Friday, February 06, 2004 at 08:22 AM
Basia,
I love this story. I honestly feel like I'm wrapped up in a good book. I second Laura's comment - there's a novel here.
I do believe your mom is sending loud and clear messages. What a beautiful way to honor her memory in a temple. You are apparently in an area of great spiritual energy - lots of 7th chakra stuff going on there! What an amazing experience. Thanks for sharing.
Posted by: Carlene | Friday, February 06, 2004 at 09:04 AM
That's incredible. I second (third?) Laura's and Carlene's motion. SEVERAL BOOKS PLEASE.
Posted by: DonnaK | Friday, February 06, 2004 at 10:30 AM
What a beautiful tale. The anniversary of a parent's death is always a painful time, and I am happy that you were able to gain some peace in a spiritual place. Perhaps you will return to this temple and have more interesting experiences to relate. BTW, I don't think your mother was trying to tell you something; she probably did enjoy the band, though.
Posted by: Dale B. | Saturday, February 07, 2004 at 11:03 AM