“India is a litmus test for many travellers and some visitors are only too happy to get on an aircraft and fly away. But if you enjoy delving into convoluted cosmologies and thrive on sensual overload, then India is one of the most intricate and rewarding dramas unfolding on earth.” (From Lonely Planet guide, Destination: India)
Sensual overload indeed! On this last morning of my India journey, I am not feeling happy about getting on an aircraft and flying away. Am I ready to leave? Yes and no. I am definitely on sensual overload, and feeling a little road-weary. But I am also feeling the pull, the warmth, the energy, and so I leave with sadness. I’ve become very attached to the India team that I’ve worked with for the past 3 weeks, and I’m feeling down as we say our good-byes. They’ve invited me to their homes, treated me to home-cooked meals, introduced me to their children, mothers and fathers. They’ve been my tour guides, chauffeurs, lunch companions. Ranga's mother hands me a beautiful purple saree when we say good-bye, and simply says to me, "friends."
I am surprised that I have felt so little homesickness here for the last three weeks. I think that knowing that so many friends and family were enjoying my experiences with me (via this blog) has definitely helped me feel connected with home. I can recall only one pang of homesickness for the U.S.: Once, eating dinner in the hotel where a live band was playing, my dinner companion requested that the band play Hotel California in my honor. The soulful rendition of Hotel California, by an Indian, made me realize how far away from California I was!
On my final day in India, I set off for a walk through Pondy Bazaar, in the heart of the city. This is sensual overload at its finest. Stalls with colorful underwear alternate with stalls of god and goddess icons. Beggars tug at my arm, pointing to their mouths or their children's mouths, pleading maa! maa! (which is either short for ma’m, or money, depending who you ask). I make the rounds with my own form of "begging" (to feed my soul!)pointing to my camera, and asking “May I take your picture? Photo ok? Take picture?”
The smell of jasmine garlands competes with incense. It is in the 90’s outside, so I decide to wear shorts, which greatly increases the staring factor. But the staring was there even when I wore a saree, so I'm getting used to it by now. Yes, India is garbage and smells and beggars and poverty and chaos. It is also warmth, and earthiness and friendly smiles and energy and teeming with life. And color. Everywhere, there is color. Burgundy and orange spices, sarees of every possible hue, yellow and orange garlands, bright red pomegranates and cool green limes. I think I am going to miss the color the most.
Before I left Rochester, my sister’s words to me were: India gets under your skin. It has definitely gotten under mine. Below, my grand finale India collage. Thanks for taking this journey with me-
[Watch for some epilogue installments, including a Top 10 list of Most Fascinating Things about India, coming to a theater near you sometime next week!]
Garland vendor
Schoolgirls with nunbirds
Selling coconut water
Cucumbers and pineapples
Boy weaving garlands
Golden man
A beggar lies on the street, amidst shoppers at Pondy Bazaar
Street sweeper
Even the garbage is colorful in India!
Motorcycle girl
Mother and daughter, grooming
"Riding the back of the bus" takes on a whole new meaning in India
Elephant in front of a temple in Pondicherry
Street children smiles

Thanks for VIRTUAL memories!
Posted by: DonnaK | Saturday, September 27, 2003 at 09:43 AM
Oh Basia, This really is like the end of a good book or favorite program that draws to a close. I have loved your blog. Thank you so much for notifying me in the original list.
Would it be OK if I offered it up as a saved memory to middle schoolers where i work who are doing a four-month study of India?
Hope your travel home is easy. The good news is that you are headed into the most colorful season in upstate NY. So maybe that means you won't have to go cold turkey on color.
xo Laurie
Posted by: Laurie | Saturday, September 27, 2003 at 10:12 AM
Basia, I am so sad to open this this morning and know this is my last day to view your beautiful work - both writing and photography. What talents you possess. I have so enjoyed your blog- what a treat! Thanks for thinking about me and including me. I am presenting at a conference next week, so I won't be able to come to Galveston. I am so sad as it would have been great to see you. Let me know if you do come visit again.
Posted by: Shannon | Sunday, September 28, 2003 at 01:12 PM